For the 2015 outing, Stuckey recruited Diesinger to join the team—they both live in Fairbanks, Alaska. His first Piolet d'Or was for a 2009 first ascent of a new route (WI5 M6 5.7R, 2650m) on Xuelian West, Tien Shan, China, with Jed Brown and Bruce Normand. Ascent: First ascent of the Entropy Wall (2,300m, VI 5.9 A2 WI4+) on the north face of Mt. Six ascents are in the running for the golden ice axe, while the great British mountaineer Doug Scott will receive the Lifetime Achievement Award. Frieh and Stuckey repeated that route in the winter of 2011. Between rewarming my nose in the cold wind. A Note About the Author: Jed Brown, 23, was born in Alaska and calls Fairbanks home. May 2007. Jed and I climbed the Diamond together back at the end of June and had a great time. Adamson has made first ascents on Pangbuk North (6589m) and Lunag West (6507m) in Nepal, as well as difficult new routes on The Mooses Tooth and on Idiot Peak on Mt. Downclimbing the ridge below the snow cave. When I asked Jed Brown, an assistant professor in the Department of Computer Science at CU Boulder, how he would introduce himself, he responded by saying that he usually introduces himself by claiming not to be something. The success of the Omega Foundation expedition in climbing the previously virgin Rutford (GPS surveyed at 4477m) on December 9 and 10, 2006—see the December 12 Newswire—left Anderson (ca. Difficulty announced: 6c free climbing, mixed climbing with an ice passage of 75° Date of the ascent: April 2009 Xuelian West, 6422 m China Over five days, Americans Jed Brown and Kyle Dempster along with Scotsman Bruce Normand completed the North face of the Xuelian West (Chinese Tien Shan). The Sorceror (WI 5) in the Ghost Valley. He now enjoys bouldering, trad, and sport climbing equally in destinations ranging from Mt. This year's climb was the third winter ascent of this striking peak. In 2007, Haley and Kelly Cordes made the first complete ascent of Tiempos Perdidos, a route on the south face of Cerro Torre. Denali, Alaska. This ice next to our camp on the glacier is probably unclimbed. Going off some tips from friends and some limited research, we travelled to the Zanskar region to try Kun (7,077m). Photos by Jed Brown. Climbing; First ascent: January 7th 2007 - Jed Brown (US) & Damien Gildea (AUS) Location of Sentinel Range in Western Antarctica. The icicles at the top fell frequently. His first Piolet d'Or was for a 2009 first ascent of a new route (M6 WI5 5.7 R, 2650m) on Xuelian West, Tien Shan, China, with Jed Brown and Bruce Normand. Published: Feb. 5, 2018. In August Colin is heading to Pakistan to climb Ultar Sar's (7,388 meters), Southeast Rib/Pillar that has seen 3 previous attempts. Winter 2002/2003 with various partners. Moffit, The Entropy Wall, New Route. The Piolets d'or 2010 were won by Denis Urubko and Boris Dedechko for their route on Cho Oyu and by Jed Brown, Kyle Dempster and Bruce Normand for their route up Xuelian West. Photo by Jed Brown. Climbing; First ascent: Jed Brown (US) December 2006: Easiest route: snow/ice climb: Sentinel Range with Craddock Massif, USGS Map. On July 10, we started up the route. Just six weeks earlier I’d had one third of my ring finger amputated due to frostbite sustained while soul-searching on a big wall in Pakistan. Colin above the ice climbing on the upper face. Kelly Cordes had e-mailed me in January about joining an expedition to the Chinese Tien Shan with Jed Brown and Bruce Normand. House-Haley Route (VI, WI5, M7), first ascent, with Steve House. This section of the ridge offered rotten, sun-baked snow climbing with no protection. descended the Brown-Normand line on the 14th. Wake, in Denali National Park, Alaska. Photo by Jed Brown. Huntington (3731m) in Alaska. Reinhold Messner received the lifetime achievement award; Walter Bonatti star guest at Courmayeur. Reinhold Messner received the lifetime achievement award; Walter Bonatti star guest at Courmayeur. Huntington was first climbed in winter in 2007, when Jed Brown and Colin Haley summited via the West Face Couloir. Mount Anderson is a high mountain in the northern part of the Sentinel Range in Ellsworth Mountains, Antarctica. Mt. As the high pressure amazingly continued through a second week, Sam and I established the Direct West Face of Mt. Jed Brown . Photo (c) Colin Haley. With Jed Brown, if successful, it will be yet another first. Famed climber Lara Kellogg fell to her death in a climbing accident last week on Mt. Moffit (3968m). The Pencil on Polar Circus. (Jed Brown and Colin Haley first climbed Huntington in winter in 2007.) Jed on the upper face. In early July, Jed Brown of Fairbanks, Alaska, and I flew from Delta Junction to Alaska's Hayes Range, landing on mudflats some ten kilometers down-glacier from Mt. Nettle-Quirk Route (V, AI4), first winter ascent of Huntington, with Jed Brown. Huntington (3731m) in Alaska. Photos copyright 2006 Jed Brown except as noted. Colin and I flew to the `mudflats' next to the Trident Glacier moraine on July 4, 2006. Jed on the ridge. Sentinel Range map. We climbed 33 pitches on the wall, plus 2 simul pitches to where we unroped. ... started alpine climbing instead. Her climbing partner, Jed Kallen-Brown, 23, was above Kellogg and out of her sight. According to this article posted on MountainZone.com, Kellogg was climbing with mountaineer Jed Brown at the time of the accident. At around 3:00 pm Mountain Daylight Time, on Friday, June 29, Jed Brown, an Assistant Professor in the Department of Computer Science at the University of Colorado Boulder, was at work. We snow caved when we hit the ridge and continued up the ridge in the morning. Canadian Rockies Ice Climbing. Photo (c) Colin Haley. I spent the month of July in the far northwestern Indian Himalaya, climbing with Jed Brown, with whom I’ve done a bunch of good climbing, but with whom I hadn’t climbed in many years. Jed Brown and Colin Haley made the probable first winter ascent of Mt. Lara-Karena Kellogg died two weeks before her 39th birthday while Recently, he's been off to Squamish to work on elevating his rock climbing skills. So my new book 'Mountaineering In Antarctica: Climbing In The Frozen South' aims to bring together much of this climbing that has been done, so much of which has largely gone unrecorded. He received a text message from one of his longtime climbing partners, the 51-year-old Scotsman Bruce Normand, who was currently on expedition to the 7,388-meter Ultar Sar, in Pakistan. 4157m), toward the northern end of the Sentinels, as the highest unclimbed mountain in the range. ... Alaska. Colin on the upper face. Craddock Massif is a mountain massif in the Sentinel Range of the Ellsworth Mountains, in the Chilean claim of West Antarctica Location and … He said he heard a scream, then the sound of a person falling. Enter Jed Brown. Hydrophobia (WI 5) in the Ghost Valley. Photo by Jed Brown. Click for high resolution versions. Haley, along with Jed Brown, was the first to climb the Entropy Wall (2,300m, VI 5.9 A2 WI4+) on Mount Moffit, in 2006. Jed Brown, Lara’s climbing partner on Wake, later explained events of the day she died. Huntington in the Alaska Range, via an extremely fast ascent of the West Face Couloir (Nettle-Quirk route).The two young climbers flew to the Tokositna Glacier below the 12,240-foot peak on March 10. Robson, BC, Canada. First, Sam and I set our sights on a line attempted in the 1990s by Jon Miller and the late Keith Echelmeyer, and again in 2005 by Jed Brown and Kevin Wright (both parties turned back). He made the first winter ascent of Mount Huntington via the Nettle-Quirk (V AI 4), March 2007— with the Alaskan Jed Brown, who is a year and a half his senior and a Ph.D. student studying the numerical analysis of ice flow at the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology in Zurich. Dempster’s achievements, as cited in a previous Rock and Ice article, include ascents of the Ogre 1 with Hayden Kennedy and Josh Wharton in 2013, and the first ascent of the north face of the Xuelian West (Chinese Tien Shan), 2010, with Jed Brown and Bruce Normand; both climbs garnered prestigious Piolet D’Or awards. Colin on the ridge. Last modified 2007-03-29. March 2007. Dan Rollert near the top of Polar Circus (WI 4+) The Upper Weeping Wall (WI 6) being baked by the sun. In early January my American climbing partner Jed Brown and I began climbing the north-west face of Mount Anderson, at that time the highest unclimbed mountain in … The Piolets d'or 2010 were won by Denis Urubko and Boris Dedechko for their route on Cho Oyu and by Jed Brown, Kyle Dempster and Bruce Normand for their route up Xuelian West. This gendarme forms the crux of the Northeast Ridge. The American-Scottish pair returned to base camp next day, but Dempster and Vilhauer remained on the upper Muzart Glacier for a further week, climbing a 1,600m ice route up the impressive northwest buttress of Yanamax, stopping on its 6,180m sub-peak (virtually a separate summit), which Moffit (3,969m), by Jed Brown and Colin Haley, July 10-13, 2006. Frieh, Stuckey and Brad Farra teamed up in March 2014 to make the first winter ascent of Huntington's French (NW) Ridge. [Photo] Jed Brown. If your climbing was a style of music what would it be and why? He is a Ph.D. student at ETH Zürich, doing numerical analysis of … The IXX Piolet d'Or will take place from 13 - 16 April 2011 at Courmayeur and Chamonix (Mont Blanc). Photo by Jeff Benowitz. Adamson has made first ascents on Pangbuk North (6589m) and Lunag West (6507m) in Nepal, as well as difficult new routes on The Mooses Tooth and Idiot Peak on Mt. 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